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OK, done! It’s been just about three months since I made the move from Boston back to the eastern suburbs of New York City. Seems about a good a time as any to get the site updated again, dust off some cobwebs, and start posting some reviews. To ease into the weekly posting schedule, I wanted to write a farewell to three cocktail bars and five beer bars I made my homes-away-from-home in the Boston area. Think of this as part love letter, part travel writeup. Not all of these places are the best of the best (though a few of them are) but all of these places hold a special, slightly hazy, warm fuzzy glowing place in my heart. Read on, and make your travel plans accordingly.
One of my favorite places on planet Earth, Eastern Standard Kitchen & Drinks is located in Kenmore Square within sight of Fenway Park. The upscale bar is the longest marble bar in Boston, and bartenders dress in white button-down shirts and black aprons. Long revered for its influence on the “classic cocktail” revival that Boston is still in the throes of, award-winning bartender Jackson Cannon and his staff mix a variety of hard-to-find and homemade spirits, infusions, and bitters to create some of my favorite drinks like the French Quarter (cognac, Peychaud’s, orange, and cherry) and the Au Provence (organic vodka, tarragon, and lime). The bar gets beer cred as well, with a large craft beer selection in bottles and Sam Adams and Harpoon always on tap. Eastern Standard is also one of the only bars offering an “œuf” section of the cocktail menu. Yes, that means drinks made with a certain shelled food item normally reserved for breakfast. You’ll have to trust me when I say that one must not leave without trying the Sexy Beast (Applejack, Bénèdictine, orange, and Diabolique) found in this special part of the menu. ESKD is also the hotel bar of the Hotel Commonwealth, so why not stay the night?
First time story: When I went to ESKD for the first time it was on a Saturday afternoon. I met some friends and was told to tell the bartender what liquor I liked to drink. One “bourbon” later and I had a wonderful whiskey smash (bourbon, lemon and mint) in front of me and a love affair was born.
You can’t go too far in Boston without hearing about Barbara Lynch and her line of restaurants. The woman is to Boston what Flay, Batali, and Dufresne are to New York City. Ms. Lynch has done her part to breathe new life into the Fort Point Channel area of Boston by opening Sportello, and in its basement Drink. Drink is what Eastern Standard would be without menus or space; the bar is small and fills up very quickly after the doors open at 5 PM sharp. Leading the highly-decorated staff of bartenders is Misty Kalkofen, president of the Boston chapter of LUPEC—Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails. As stated, the bar has no menus save for a one-page deal offering small bites of food. Perfectly blended herbed gin drinks are served alongside Mint Juleps with a perfect sphere of shaved ice atop the glass and a large bouquet of mint sprouting from within. There are no bottles visible from the seats; tell the bartender what you like and you’ll get one of hundreds of classic and updated cocktails.
First time story: Similar to ESKD above, I tried the Fort Point. Like a Manhattan, but made with house-infused bitters and the smoothest bourbon I’ve had the pleasure of drinking. The homemade liquor-soaked cherry is served on the side, which makes for a nice finish to the drink when it’s done.
When I think back on the only two times I’ve visited the Citizen Public House and Oyster Bar, I wipe away misty eye because I wish I could have had more time to spend inside this new addition. Citizen opened up near Fenway Park in 2010, and immediately upped the standard of what a beer and cocktail bar should be. Citizen combines a rotating craft beer tap list with a library of whiskey and throws in wine and Fernet Branca on draught just to make your head spin. Crazy cocktails include the Good John made with Jameson’s, Carpano Antica, maraschino liqueur, lemon and bitters; and the Banana Smash with Old Monk rum, fresh banana, and demerara syrup. The food offered is spectacular as well, with a duck & smoked sausage cassoulet made with beans and bacon, that I would beat up your little brother for and even a pig roast with reservations made in advance.
First time story: The lovely Ms. Beer Snob and I went out for a date night to Citizen and sat at the bar. I drank the Ideal Manhattan: Maker’s Mark, St. Germain, Cinzano Rosso and Angostura & grapefruit bitters. After that, I had to try the peachy Bourbon Belle: Eagle Rare Single Barrel, Mathilde Peches, Carpano Antica, bitters, and a brandied cherry. While looking at the extensive whiskey menu written on the chalkboard wall I noticed that they had Tuthilltown spirits, including the frightening, clear New York Corn Whiskey. When I inquired about what to do with that particular spirit, the bartender looked at me and with all seriousness said, “Really, the best thing to do with that is just shoot it.” My bottle at home remains unopened.
OK enough talk of liquor, this is a beer site, right? Check back next week for the five places that were my go-to standards for a pint of suds, and will always be on my short list of places to hit on any return trips to Boston.
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